by HEATHER KENNY, a closet consultant who also gives personalized boutique tours
1. Audit your closet. It’s painful, but before you can build a wardrobe you must take stock of what you already own. Clear a big space. Lay out your clothes in three groups according to how often you wear them: items you wear all the time, occasionally, and never. (In the process, your shopping ticks will quickly become apparent to you; for instance, a tendency to buy black turtlenecks over and over.) Sort through the stuff you rarely wear and rescue items you like but had forgotten about. If you haven’t worn something in two years, throw it away or donate. If you say to yourself, “I’ll wear it when I lose 20 pounds,” pitch it.
2. Build a wardrobe. Don’t simply fill your closet. Kenny says that women too often buy black clothing by default; consider other neutrals such as brown, gray, and navy. Save on trendy items like fun tops and jewelry; but invest in a solid core, which Kenny says should consist of these items:
- At least two pairs of well-fitting work pants
- One tailored suit
- Two pairs of nice jeans (one casual, one dressy)
- A pencil skirt, which can be casual or dressed up for work
- A pair of black evening shoes
- A pair of going-out shoes that aren’t black
- A fitted jacket
- A classic trench coat
- One great dress that is flattering and not necessarily black: “An everyday dress you can throw on when you’re feeling uninspired,” she says.
3. Make a list. Don’t get sidetracked by things you don’t need, even if they are on sale. “Divide the list into things you need, things you’ll buy for the right price, and core items that you already own that can be worked around,” says Kenny.
4. Shop off season. Buy a bathing suit at the end of the summer, or a classic trench at the end of the fall. Kenny says it pays to know the sales cycles at your favorite boutiques because smaller shops typically discount their goods in shorter six- to eight-week cycles. “If you know something has been in there for a few weeks, you can take a chance and see if it goes on sale,” she says.
5. Try everything on. Never buy a piece of clothing that doesn’t flatter your body—down to such picayune considerations as the length of a T-shirt. Trying on clothing before you buy also forces you to shop for the body you have, not the body you want.
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